This is the second in an irregular series on botanic gardens
which I regard as special.
The National Botanic Gardens in Canberra have been an
important part of my life for over 30 years, from when they and I were young. I’ve
been a regular visitor for that time, though it was easier when I lived just 20
minutes walk away. In my bad times (a long time ago now) it was a haven. I’ve
celebrated friends there – by way of a wedding, birthdays, many picnics and two
memorial services for friends who, in life, loved the place as much as I do.
It is, I’m sure, one of the few national botanic gardens in
the world to focus exclusively on the native plants of the country; I’d be
fascinated to hear of others. Sixty years ago the site, on the lower slopes of
Black Mountain, comprised degraded dairy farms on what had originally been dry
eucalypt forest; some remnant trees remained, and can still be seen in the
gardens, along with extensive areas of regenerated forest.
Old Brittle Gum Eucalyptus mannifera among the plantings. Although older than the gardens, it seems that it was coppiced by the lessees, perhaps for firewood or fence posts. |
In the 1950s the locally legendary Lindsay Pryor, forester
and Canberra’s Superintendent of Parks and Gardens, oversaw the resumption of
the land and the beginning of its development. It was not until 1967 that the
gardens opened to the public, and 1970 before its official opening. At this
stage it was still the Canberra Botanic Gardens; not until 1978 was its
national role formalised.
Now there are over 70,000 cultivated plants in the 90
hectare site (less than half of which is yet developed), representing more than
5,000 species from the entire country, a remarkable tribute to horticultural
skill and wizardry, given our location on a cold, dry plateau. There must be
ten of kilometres of walking paths; you couldn’t see it all in a day. In
addition to its important research function – as part of which it hosts the
National Herbarium – it contains Canberra’s best natural history bookshop, an
education centre and lecture theatre, public reference herbarium, and a café
which, on a good day, can be quite good. A vital and passionate Friends group
performs many voluntary roles, the most visible of which involves free guided
walking tours, twice a day (or on request) all year round.
The layout is largely based on taxonomic groupings – massed
plantings representing the major Australian plant families – though sections
representing ecological regions are important, and seemingly becoming more of a
focus. The best known and loved of these is doubtless the remarkable rainforest
gully, which 40 years ago was still dry and open.
Ephemeral gully above the rainforest gully; this is how the scenes below looked prior to development. |
Careful sequential planting, soil preparation and aerial misting have
produced an environment which supports plants from the cool temperate forests
of Tasmania to the tropical tangles of north Queensland. It’s a wonderful – and
sought-after – venue on a hot day.
Walking tracks follow both the rim and floor of the gully. |
Ferns, palms and epiphytes outside in Canberra (where winter nights can be -10 degrees)? A form of botanical alchemy. |
Another is the rockery, an extensive area of raised beds
which supports plants from habitats as diverse as the dry Western Australian
heaths and alpine bogs. This is an extraordinary venture, including a stream
which culminates in a rock wall, waterfall and plunge pool.
The waterfall is in the dark section of rock just to the right of centre of the photo. The rockery itself (featured in the next photos) is behind the rock wall. |
It was commenced in December 1979, a couple of weeks before
I arrived here. I clearly remember the piles of huge boulders, some weighing
over 20 tonnes. I remember too being told by one of the rangers at the time that
a consultant spent days wandering round looking at the rocks – and at the end
of the time knew exactly which went where.
Other habitat- and regional-themed areas include mallee
(from both western and eastern Australia), Sydney sandstone, grasslands and Tasmania.
Edge of the Sydney sandstone gully; new plantings featuring Flannel Flowers Actinotus helianthi in the foreground. |
The latest, and an exciting,
development is a central Australian section, featuring the red sandstone of the
Centre.
Central Australian section under construction, February 2013; due for opening in spring 2013. For scale, see the full-sized rare Central Australian Cabbage Palm Livistone mariae, on the far left. |
There is, as one would expect, an emphasis on threatened plant species too.
And all this is to say nothing of the prolific wildlife of
the gardens; I’ll dedicate a posting to that next week.
Meantime, I’ll be back on Sunday to celebrate some birthdays
from Australia’s biological history.
6 comments:
Agree wholeheartedly with your comments. I was really unhappy when the Gardens went through a bad patch a few years back but they are now back firing on all eight!
I also feel they do a very good job in exposing the community to native plants through the Friends Concert series in Canberra. This has (possibly) got even better in my (impossibly) humble opinion with the announcement of a Small Brewers Beer Festival in March!
Martin
I agree -- the gardens are special, and I always make sure to visit them at least once when I am in Canberra. My blog post for tomorrow is about a little incident I had in the garden late last year, as it happens.
I also love Kew Gardens -- they are one of the most special places on earth, for me, and the conservation work they do worldwide is outstanding.
Eucryphia's bring very mixed feelings for me. Although I love them, they are forever associated with the events of 11 Sept 2001 for me. I was discussing the Eucryphias in Nymans Garden with a curatorial colleague when my husband rang to say a plane had crashed into the World Trade Centre. Horrible.
The wedding you refer to is a source of some regret over my non-attendence -- the inevitable guilt of the expat.
Martin -- I assume by your enthusiasm there is a chance of decent beer being available in March? I keep being told that Australian beer has improved, but don't see much evidence of it getting really interesting. The best I have encountered was Little Creatures Pale Ale, which was good, but not so outstanding I'd make the trip to have it again.
Martin - very excited by the prospect of the small beer festival! Didn't know of it.
I'm an old mate of Judy West, so biased, but I agree the NBG has come through its bad patch of being under-resourced and -regarded.
Susan. I look forward to your next posting. Isn't it strange how seemingly unlikely things become associated with something which should be utterly unconnected, by sheerest chance? I'm sorry that Eucryphias are tainted for you; I hope you're not put off leatherwood honey!
On that note, I empathise re the expat/wedding comment. I got to your sister's wedding, but a decade or so earlier missed both of my sisters', for similar reasons. (Had lunch with Kathy and John on Sunday actually.) And I reckon that there is some excellent small brewery Aust beer around now; though if you're not that impressed by Little Creature PA, I'd love to try the brew that comes between you and it! (French? or Belgian?)
French beer is mostly dire, although there are more and more promising young microbrewers doing very drinkable stuff, including a couple near us. I'm afraid Little Creatures is at about the level of a serviceable British beer -- a bog standard Shepherds Neame or John Smith, that sort of thing, or the big commercial Belgians like Leffe. Of the big names in the UK I'm a big fan of Adnams and the Black Sheep range. Belgian beer is the best in the world though, with British a close second. Of the big name Belgians I like Westmalle the best.
I began wandering the Gardens when I lived on compus at the ANU in the early 70s - lots of plants were being brought in and on more than one occasion the gardeners handed me some odd insect they'd found on a new shipment - I especially remember a huge green weevil from Qld, which was one of the stars of the insect collection I put together during my Entomology unit. (entomology students were pretty obvious, wandering around the ANBG with our little butterfly nets and notebooks!)
sandra h
Yes, Biosecurity must make it a lot harder for collectors these days! And I think that a butterfly net might get you into trouble there now... You've seen even more exciting developments there - 10 years worth - than I have!
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