Winter has come in Canberra and, while mild by the standards of much of the Northern Hemisphere, it's cold enough to get me thinking fondly of the tropics. I've written about Cairns before, focussing on the wonderful and justly famed Esplanade - see here - but today I'm writing about our other favourite part of this beautifully situated (but tourist-swollen) north Queensland city.
This is a sprawling 320 hectare site, with quite a bit of remnant vegetation, in the suburb of Edge Hill and at the foot of Mount Whitfield, just five minutes drive from the city centre. The definition of it is highly confusing and has changed over time. There are two entirely different elements to it. The formal gardens cover 38ha and most people think of them as the Flecker Gardens. To the south across Collins Avenue is the Centenary Lakes precinct. Officially the whole area is the Flecker Botanic Gardens; to avoid more confusion than already exists the formal gardens are now generally known simply as the Cairns Botanic Gardens and the rest of it as the Centenary Lakes.
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A typical view of the Centenary Lakes; this is Freshwater Lake, unimaginatively but unambiguously named. It was originally a three hectare ephemeral swamp but was converted to a permanent lake in 1975.
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The history stretches back to within a decade of the founding of Cairns in the 1870s. Botanist and horticulturalist Eugene Fitzalan founded a small formal public garden and nursery within the boundaries of the modern gardens. He was very well-regarded, worked with von Mueller, and has at least nine plant species named for him. However the modern gardens owe their name to Dr Hugo Flecker, a prominent radiotherapist, toxicologist and natural historian. He identified the source of mysterious deaths of swimmers as a box jellyfish, which was named
Chironex fleckeri for him just before his death in 1957. He founded the North Queensland Naturalists' Club in 1932 and guided it as both a scientific and amateur body for the next 25 years. His story is a fascinating one and it's worth reading more about him
here. The gardens were named for him in 1971, and some time later (I
cannot find a date but the Centenary Lakes opened in 1976, so it could well have been then) the name was extended to the whole complex.
It might be useful to have an idea of their layout for the account which follows; here's a basic map which should help.
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It's a bit fuzzy, but I've added some yellow numbers to help with key features. 1; in the top left corner, is the relatively small Cairns Botanic Gardens, rough rectangle bounded by the four obvious roads. 2; Saltwater Creek, a tidal creek which connects to the sea a short distance away. 3; Rainforest Boardwalk, an excellent introduction to the lakes area, via original swampy forest. 4; Freshwater Lake, a wonderful spot for water birds. 5; mangroves, which follow Saltwater Creek. Courtesy Cairns Regional Council.
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My interest is primarily in the Centenary Lakes system - you can see from the map how densely vegetated it is and most of this is remnant original forest. The formal gardens are just that - very pleasant but mostly of non-Australian plantings, and usually very busy with tourists. Still worth visiting while you're there of course, but I'm only going to feature one aspect of it today.
The Rainforest Boardwalk is our favourite way to approach the Centenary Lakes, though the picnic facilities and lakes are also easily accessed from Greenslopes Road at the bottom of the map.
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The enticing western entry to the boardwalk. The fan palm leaves here are metal!
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The walk begins in palm forest, dominated by Alexander Palms Archontophoenix alexandrae; here the forest floor is wet but not generally flooded. This habitat has been almost totally eliminated in the Cairns area.
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Alexander Palms dominating the palm forest, above and below.
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The foliage of other trees, notably Blue Quandong Elaeocarpus angustifolius, can be seen here also.
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The clusters of small red palm fruits attract many birds (and bats by night), among which the noisy gregarious Metallic Starlings Aplonis metallica are most conspicuous.
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Metallic Starlings (adult below, streaky immature, not very clear, above).
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From here we move into Lowland Paperbark Forest, magnificently dominated by huge Giant Paperbarks Melaleuca leucadendra, some of them centuries old.
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Giant Paperbark.
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Lastly, with water lying on the surface of the ground, we enter Pandanus Swamp Forest, where Pandanus solmslaubachii rules with wet feet.
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The very distinctive foliage of pandanus.
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The presence of Climbing Swamp Fern Stenochlaena palustris is also diagnostic of the swamp forest.
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Once we emerge from the forest we soon find ourselves on the banks of the Freshwater Lake where waterbirds are abundant, especially in the dry season. Some can be readily found down south...
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Basket fungus; at least I'm calling it that in the absence of better information but it doesn't really resemble the Illeodictyon species which I know and are usually known as baskets. Any help welcomed and acknowledged!
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Finally, I mentioned earlier a part of the formal Cairns Botanic Gardens which I'll include here because of the particular presence of native animal species. This, perhaps surprisingly, is the impressive conservatory.
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Steamy and green, all that a tropical conservatory could be, and full of animal life as well. It's a lovely experience.
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The plantings in it are far from all native, but they attract an array of butterflies and even at least one attractive little snake. I imagine that the butterflies (all local species) have been introduced to the glasshouse, but they could leave if they wish, so I imagine there is some coming and going.
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Red Lacewing Cethosia cydippe, above and below.
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Red Lacewings feed on a couple of species of rainforest vine.
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Male Cruiser Vendula arsinoe. They are found from Queensland to the islands to the north.
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Female Cruisers lay their eggs not on the leaves of the native passionfruit which is their host plant, but on nearby dead material on which they are less conspicuous.
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The eggflies are a group of some 25 species of the genus Hypolimnas whose name purportedly refers to the 'egg' spots on the males' wings. It could well be true, and I've no better explanation.
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Blue-banded Eggfly Hypolimnas alimena (on my trousers, inexplicably - though I was doubtless sweating). It is found from Indonesia to NSW.
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Varied Eggfly Hyplimnas bolina. They have a huge natural range from Madagascar across Asia to northern Australia.
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This skink had also taken up residence in the greenhouse; so far I've not been able to put a name to it. Any assistance welcomed.
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But the most surprising encounter there made us start momentarily, though it's quite harmless to humans. Not all the visitors were quite so sanguine however.
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This elegant little Green Tree Snake Dendrelaphis punctulatus was gliding through the undergrowth, paying no attention to us, though it climbs as well as its name suggests. The skink, plus any geckoes and frogs present, are definitely at risk from it.
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I hope that you can make it to the Australian tropics sometime soon in these difficult times; we're certainly aiming to be in north Queensland later this year (with fingers firmly crossed), and will spend a couple of days in Cairns. And while there we will certainly pay yet another visit to the Flecker Gardens. The visit wouldn't be complete otherwise. Maybe see you there?
NEXT POSTING THURSDAY 24 JUNE
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