Beowa National Park; old park, new name

We've very recently returned from a most pleasant five nights at a park which is rapidly becoming a favourite, though we only camped there for the first time a year ago. It's on the far south coast of New South Wales, straddling Twofold Bay and the port of Eden, with sections north and south of them. 

Bittangabee Bay, by Bittangabee Campground (our temporary home), Beowa NP.

The arrow marks the location of Beowa, very near the Victorian border
with New South Wales.

You may know it better as Ben Boyd National Park, as it was officially called from its gazettal in 1971 until September 2022, so let's get that out of the way first. Benjamin Boyd was a ruthless but apparently charismatic wheeler and dealer of the first half of the nineteenth century, a Scot who came to New South Wales in 1842 and became involved, with varying degrees of dodginess, in grazing, shipping, whaling, banking and politics. However the relevant activity in this context was his invention of the extraordinary, and deplorable, practice of 'blackbirding'. This was the effective kidnapping of South Pacific people (mostly young men) and forcing them to sign an agreement which they couldn't read to work for very little remuneration for a period of about three years. His motivation was cheap labour for his various ventures in the vicinity of what is now Beowa NP. It ultimately failed because the authorities refused to ratify the agreements and many of the unwilling workers just ran away. Many died. (Later it was revived, though not by Boyd, on a much larger scale in the Queensland sugar fields.) 

In 2020, in the context of the worldwide Black Lives Matter movement, there was increasing pressure to remove the association with such an inappropriate individual and, after extensive consultation with local Indigenous and Pacific communities, the name Beowa (meaning Orca) was settled on. 

So back to the park. Our interest is mainly in the larger southern section, know as Green Cape for a feature near the Bittangabee campground. The cape is a good place to start meeting the park if you're new to it; the road to the 19th century lighthouse gives easy access. 

Green Cape Lighthouse in early morning haze.
Built in the 1880s it still operates, though no longer burning oil!

Here are two moods of the coast looking north from the cape.

Both shots were taken in February, but twelve months apart. The rocks are some 350 million
years old, a mix of sedimentaries such as ironstone (hence the red tinge that is prevalent)
and metamporphics such as quartzites which derived from them.

Ironstone at nearby City Rock, looking south.

And here are some more coastal scenes, as that's what many people go to the park for. 

An arm of Bittangabee Bay, extending inland; walking the perimeter is very pleasant indeed.

Morning haze from Pulpit Rock, near Green Cape.

Looking south from the Disaster Bay Lookout across the bay, where in 1802 Matthew Flinders
stopped on his circumnavigation of the continent in the Investigator.  He sent a party of eight
sailors ashore to replenish the ship's water supply, but none returned, hence his name for the bay.
(Other sources simply attribute it to the many shipwrecks in the bay, but Flinders' journal is
cited as a source, though I haven't seen a copy of it.) He had already named Green Cape in 1798
on his way to sail around Van Diemen's Land (now Tasmania) in the Norfolk.
To the right is Lake Wonboyne and beyond is wild Nadgee Nature Reserve and ultimately Victoria.

In places the coastal heathland extends up to a kilometre inland - the peninsula that culminates in Green Cape is entirely dominated by it - though more typically it's restricted to the headlands. It's a habitat that I spend a lot of time in when I'm there. It is dominated by heaths (ie family Epacridaceae/Ericaceae, 'heath' having a double meaning here), banksias, hakeas, casuarinas, wattles, westringias, sedges etc and is often very dense. Birds and other animals abound here, but we'll get to them. Here are some scene-setters of the heathlands.

Like much of the park the heaths are recovering from the vast fires of January 2020; the
heaths respond more rapidly than do the forests.

Part of the 30km Light to Light walk along the coast from Green Cape to Boyd's Tower
at the northern end of the southern section of the park.

Looking north from the track, near Green Cape, with regenerating Saw Banksia
B. serrata in the foreground. I think we're looking at Haycock Hill, the highest point
in the park at 250 metres above sea level.

Apparently unburnt heath with red Common Heath Epacris impressa and spiky Silky Hakea
H. sericea in the foreground, and flowering Saw Banksia behind.

Looking across the heathland with prominent sedges to Disaster Bay.

Heath with Scrub, Dwarf or Swamp Sheoak Allocasuarina paludosa in the foreground.

As mentioned, both our stays there have been in summer so flowering was nowhere near its peak, but there was enough to keep us satisfied.

Hairy Fanflower Scaevola ramosissima.

Wedding Bush Ricinocarpus pinifolius. This is a male flower; they tend to open after the
female flowers to avoid self-fertilisation. Moreover while there are usually five petals, quite
a few have six, like this one. This variability is often regarded as a primitive characteristic and
most plants have flowers which do not vary in petal number.

Common Heath Epacris impressa; flowers can also be pink or white. It is the floral emblem
of Victoria but is also found from Adelaide to the Budawang Ranges in NSW, and in Tasmania.

Small Crowea C. exalata, in the family Rutaceae, like boronias, correas and citrus fruit.
Nestled in the middle, the little four-petalled white flower is Hairy Mitrewort Mitrasacme pilosa.

Saw Banksia, which if long-unburnt can grow to ten metres tall or twist into
magnificent distortions in windy situations (below).

On the headlands are often dense stands of big Bracelet or Giant Honey-myrtle, or Coastal Teatree Melaleuca armillaris. In such situations not much grows beneath them as the fallen leaves form a smothering carpet.

Coastal Teatree along the Light to Light Track.

However the only orchid we found was growing under the teatrees by the campground.

 

Blotched Hyacinth Orchid Dipodium punctatum, a leafless saprophyte (ie it invariably grows
in association with a fungus which provides it with soil nutrients). I don't regard it as
particularly common in this part of the world, where it is mostly coastal.

Coastal Teatrees can also grow in the harshest and most unlikely of situations on the rocky headlands in almost no soil and in the full blast of the salty wind.

At Pulpit Rock this hardy stand of Coastal Teatree is holding together the ground
beneath them as it erodes away around them.

This old survivor germinated among the rocks above the sea, but the constant winds
have forced it to grow flat on the ground.

Generally nature doesn't obey our rules of sharp cutoffs between habitat types, with gradual changes being the norm, but that's not always the case with the heathland-forest interface.

I found this to be especially striking when driving back from Green Cape to
Bittangabee Bay. I assume the sharp change is associated with a change of soil
type from sand to clay and gravel (though of course this raises other questions).

Silvertop Ash Eucalyptus sieberi and Red Bloodwood E. gummifera are probably the most widespread forest species in the park, but there are many others present.

Woollybutt forest Eucalyptus longifolia, Bittangabee Bay.

Wetter patches occur in sheltered situations, and the inland fringe of Bittangabee campground is dominated by a dense strip of Sweet Pittosporum P. undulatum.

And as already mentioned, the impacts of the 2020 fires are still very evident almost everywhere, and are likely to remain so for years to come.

And while I was intending to conclude with a selection of animals of the park, that would double the length of this post, which I think is already long enough for a single sitting and I will post separately on them. However I won't impose the usual three week gap between posts, and will put that one up in a fortnight. Thanks for reading and see you then. Meantime if you're in the region you just might want to pop along and enjoy Beowa for yourself!

NEXT POSTING THURSDAY 23 FEBRUARY

 

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Gariwerd/Grampians National Park; one of the best

One of the most superb - and most-visited - national parks in Australia rises from the western plains of Victoria. Gariwerd was renamed the Grampians after the Scottish range by the now infamous surveyor/explorer Thomas Mitchell in 1836, but now both names are used together. In the 1990s a Victorian premier, in an act of astonishing political perversity, abolished the original Indigenous names that had been jointly reinstated but sense and decency has since apparently been restored in this matter.

The central section of Gariwerd from the east, some 25km away. The range (or series
of ranges) is 90km long from north to south, and half that at its widest point,
covering an impressive 167,000 hectares, though astonishingly it wasn't declared
national park until 1984. It is surrounded by farmland, formerly woodland.

Gariwerd lies approximately at the end of the red arrow in the
south-east corner of the map.

A low-res map of the park, courtesy of Parks Victoria. You'll probably need to
click on it to see it at all clearly. Halls Gap (HG) is in the middle of the eastern edge of the
range - look for the white on blue i (for Information). The main areas covered by the
photos are Mount Zero and Gulgum Manja Shelter in the far north; Heatherlie Quarry
about halfway between HG and Mount Zero; Boroka Lookout, just north-west
of HG; Balconies, west of HG; Victoria Valley, south-west of HG.

There are roads through the park but it is not fragmented by them and much of the park is only accessible by foot. Accordingly, most visitors see only a tiny area of the park, though this is still pretty satisfactory. My guess is that most visitors never leave the small area around Hall's Gap, a busy village in the centre of the eastern edge of the range; from here there are walks along the delightful Stoney Creek and a short circular drive to other creek and waterfall walks.

 

Stoney Creek, a delightful short walk from the tourist hub of Hall's Gap.

These sheltered walks along ferny stream lines, often leading to a waterfall, are probably the most popular in the park (though not least because most of them are close to Hall's Gap).

Another scene on Stoney Creek; this is near the pool known as Venus' Bath. These awfully
twee names make me wince, but they are rife in areas favoured by 19th and early 20th
century tourists. And our forebears were dedicated and determined tourists!

People were coming to the Grampians (as they were then universally known in English) from Melbourne from the middle of the 19th century, taking advantage of the trains to Stawell in particular. In 1868, Thomas' Guide for Excursionists from Melbourne was published to promote the Grampians. The return rail fare from Melbourne was £5. "To him who likes to escape a while from the conventionalities and to be brought for a while face-face with nature in her solemn grand and eternal beauty, we say: Try the Grampians" Unfortunately he then went on to recommend the pleasures of shooting the wallabies (probably the Brush-tailed Rock-Wallaby, now Critically Endangered in Victoria)...

In addition the ranges supported a logging industry, a hugely destructive wattle bark industry (for tannins for leather-tanning), gold mining, stone quarrying and stock grazing. Not only was this environmentally detrimental, but had (as everywhere) catastrophic imlications for the Djab Wurrung and Jardwardjali people, whose descendants help manage the park today. However their stories are not mine to tell, and I don't have the right or ability to do so.

Gulgum Manja art site, in the far north of the park. This is a well-publicised site,
protected by a mesh and interpreted. There are several such sites in the areas (as well,
I imagine, as many others not advertised); more information on them can be found at
Brambuk Cultural Centre in Hall's Gap.

Instead here are a few more scenes from walks along the stream lines, or to waterfalls. They also feature some of the magnificent rock formations which are such a feature of the park. Most of the geology features sediments - sandstones etc - which were laid down during the Devonian, between 415 and 425 million years ago, by rivers carrying material from higher ground into shallow estuaries. (There are also some younger granites, but not in the areas most people visit.)

Golton Gorge, off the road north to Mount Zero. Another easy pleasant
walk to where the water slides over the rocks via a small fall into a pool.

Turret Falls, in the Wonderland area (see previous comments on
twee 19th century names), in the Hall's Gap area. This photo, and the couple of
Stoney Creek earlier,  were taken in September 2019 after prolonged drought,
just before the current series of inundating La Niñas began.

The next two were taken in early October 2022 after a wet week, but before the devastating rains of the past week (I am writing on 27 October 2022) which have submerged so much of New South Wales and northern Victoria. The results at the waterfalls were spectacular (and I can't imagine what they look like now).

Mackenzie Falls, even from way above it was truly awesome
(and I don't use that word lightly).

Silverband Falls - and as you can see from the spots on the lens it was still
raining. The big eucalypt on the left had been washed off the hillside opposite,
and the roar of the water was overwhelming.

Away from the wet gullies in the sheltered central eastern ranges near Hall's Gap, dry eucalypt forest with a heathy understorey is more the norm.

The track into Heatherlie Quarry where the flowering in spring is spectacular.

There are some truly grand views to be had at a couple of justifiably well-known lookouts (both of which can be pretty good for flowers too). Boroka Lookout is right above Hall's Gap (600 metres above it in fact) though it's reached by a 15km drive west along Mount Victory Road, then north a little to the well-marked lookout. The views west and south are superb.

South from Goroka Lookout. The sandstone layers in the foreground and the tilted planes of
the Wonderland Range behind must delight a geologist's eyes; they certainly do mine.
Far beyond is the Serra Range. To the left is Lake Bellfield, created by a dam on Fyans Creek
in 1966 to provide water (and recreation) for Hall's Gap, which is to the left of the photo.

The other famed vistas are from Reed's Lookout and along the adjacent one kilometre track to the Balconies (formerly widely known as the Jaws of Death, which was apparently deemed to require some tweaking for PR purposes, perhaps understandably). The carpark is by the Mount Victory Road, not far past the Boroka Lookout turnoff.

Looking south into the Glenelg River headwaters valley (generally referred to as
Victoria Valley), with Moora Moora Reservoir in the distance. It was planned in
the 1880s but only completed in 1934, to divert water to Horsham - which I have to
say seems a long way in the wrong direction, way back over our left shoulder
as we're looking at it!

Moora Moora Reservoir (while we're talking about it), which is a lovely tranquil
place now, though in the 1890s there were up to 80 people in a small village here
logging ancient River Red Gums for railway sleepers. It's worth recalling too that
prior to the dam being built it was a doubtless rich and fascinating wetland.
Across the water the effects of bushfires can be seen in the trees; since 2006 there have
been three major fires in Gariwerd which have together burnt some 85% of the park.
The effects can be seen everywhere.

Back to Reeds Lookout, from where the track to the Balconies passes through interesting areas of sheet sandstone with little mossy gardens, and with views to the north.

 

Moss bed on the rocks along the Balconies walking track, with Fairies' Aprons
Utrichularia dichotoma and sundews Drosera spp.

Looking north across the sandstone sheets to Lake Wartook in a valley of the Mount
Difficult Range. The park seems to have more than its share of reservoirs, though to
be fair they were all built before its late gazettal (but see below). It was another wetland,
which attracted pastoralists and the Cobb and Co. coaches for watering stock.
The first dam wall was built here in 1887, but was raised significantly in 1997 - ie well
after the park's gazettal. The water is released to the Mackenzie River, and then channelled
to the Wimmera River to provide Horsham's water supply.

About 30 years ago you were able - indeed encouraged! - to clamber onto the lower 'balcony', high above the valley floor. Given that fact that the sandstone is gradually eroding away, this seems crazy now and there is fencing and signs in an attempt to deter people - but some people are hard to protect... I've even seen a photo from the 1940s of a party of 23 people posing on it, who collectively must have weighed close to two tonnes; that could have ended very badly indeed.

 

The Balconies from the newish adjacent lookout. The tree in the foreground partly
obscures the lower shelf, so you can't really see how flimsy it looks.

 While we're admiring sandstone, here are a few more Gariwerd sandstone scenes to admire.

 

The view looking roughly north-east from Mount Zero in the far north of the park.

Also in the far north, close to Mount Zero, is the Gulgum Manja art site (in an area also referred
to as Hollow Mountain). There is a photo of some of the art above, but this is its setting.

Along Rose's Gap Road, driving back from Mount Zero to Hall's Gap.
I just had to stop and photograph these grand cliffs over the trees.

As mentioned earlier, it is impossible not to be aware of the impact of fires in the past couple of decades, almost wherever you go in Gariwerd. 

Epicormic buds beginning the tree's recovery along the Mount Victory Road. I think this
was actually a management burn, being very recent and limited in area along the road.

The north end of the park burned very severely in January 2014 and as far as I know that
was the last time, though I'm having trouble getting information on the third fire mentioned
above. This photo was taken in early September 2019, and the fact that it had been very
dry for some time explains the apparently slow recovery. The flowering was still
impressive however.

This is the same general area (not the same scene) three years later, in October 2022.
Recovery is progressing well and the flowering this year was wonderful after three wet years.

I keep teasing you with mention of flowering without really producing any. That's because there is far too much to squeeze into this post, and I'll be focussing on the flowers next time. However as an appetiser here are three of the 20 species found nowhere but Gariwerd, plus another which has only one other outlying population.

Grampians Thryptomene T. calycina. This lovely shrub is widespread in the park (but nowhere else) flowering right  through winter and spring.

Flame Grevillea G. dimorpha is widespread, but not abundant, but can't be missed when in flower,
which also happens from late autumn to spring. I have read that it also occurs in the Pyrenees (!)
near Ararat to the east, but the Flora of Victoria confirms that it's restricted to Gariwerd.

Grampians Parrot-Pea Dillwynia oreodoxa is a Gariwerd endemic of rocky areas.

Rock Banksia B. saxicola, here on Mount William on a misty day, is otherwise
found only at Wilsons Promontery on the coast on the other side of Melbourne.
It is not common, found only in some mountainside sites.

If you're into wildflowers, come back in a fortnight - they're too good to have to wait three weeks for - when I'll present a range of lovely Gariwerd flora. If this post hasn't persuaded you to go there (or go back there) sometime soon, I'm hoping that the flowers can clinch it! Meantime, stay dry if you can, and enjoy the final weeks of spring in the Southern Hemisphere.

NEXT POSTING THURSDAY 10 NOVEMBER

 

I love to receive your comments and in future will be notifying you personally by email when a new posting appears, if you'd like me to. All current subscribers have been added to this mailing list and have already been contacted. This will mean one email every three weeks at the current rate of posting. I promise never to use the list for any other purpose and will never share it.
Should you wish to be added to it, just send me an email at calochilus51@internode.on.net. You can ask to be removed from the list at any time,or could simply mark an email as Spam, so you won't see future ones.