This is the conclusion of an exploration of the wildlife wonders of the southern Pantanal, as encapsulated by the fazenda (a working cattle property) on which stands the comfortable lodge Pousada Aguapé. Last time we were too captivated by the wildlife activity in the lodge gardens to venture further afield, but there is good reason to do that too. So climb onto the high-backed truck, decked with seats, from the platform provided, and come and explore the property.
We were there in September, normally towards the end of the dry season, but the rains came early last year so there was a lot of water around, and waterbirds had begun to scatter across the Pantanal, but they certainly weren't absent.
Our group boarding - please join us! (Photo courtesy of Murray Delahoy - thanks Murray!) |
Views, above and below, of the ephemeral wetlands starting to fill. |
The water was already almost up to (or over) the tracks in places; later most of the area, save only higher ground, will disappear under at least a metre and a half of water for a few months. |
The land is managed, seemingly very successfully, for both cattle and wildlife. |
Probably needless to say I couldn't identify most of the plants, but here are a couple of significant ones that I had some success with, including another species of Pickerel Weed.
Pontederia parviflora, which seems to favour more shallow water than P. rotundifolia. |
Salvinia auriculata, a floating fern native to the Americas, which has become a pest of waterways in some parts of the world. It is in the same family as Azolla, familiar in Australia. |
And despite my earlier comments about relative scarcity of waterbirds, there were still enough to bring great satisfaction - here are some of the birds we encountered in the rising waters.
Jabiru Jabiru mycteria with a very large lunch - amazingly, and after a struggle, it went down too! |
Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus, a bird whose range seems to be increasing with clearing of forests. (This flock was actually outside of the fazenda, but part of the same system.) |
And of course various small birds use the emergent wetland vegetation, but not the water itself.
Wedge-tailed Grassfinch Emberizoides herbicola; despite its name, it's really a tanager. As I alluded to last time, tanager-associated taxonomy is a very tangled web indeed! |
And of course birds aren't the only inhabitants of the wetlands.
Capybaras Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris are the world's biggest rodent, are supremely at home in the water, and are seemingly ubiquitous in the Pantanal - above and below. |
Where the grasslands and open woodlands have not yet flooded, different animals can be found, including some of the most exciting from our point of view.
Blue-crowned Parakeets Thectocercus acuticaudatus. These lovely - and it must be said engaging - little parrots are in the Pantanal only found in the south-western woodlands. |
Red Pileated Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus, common enough in its eastern South American range, but still a delight for visitors like us. |
Grey Monjita Xolmis cinereus, a tyrant flycatcher (the 'other' big group of uniquely South American old passerines); there are three species of monjita at Pousada Aguapé. |
Long-tailed Ground Dove Uropelia campestris, limited to central-west Brazil and adjacent Bolivia; one of several species of small ground-foraging doves in the Pantanal. |
And of course with this richness of birds, there are predators and scavengers.
Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris, a common hawk of a vast swathe of eastern South America, loitering with intent. |
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus, a constant sight in the Pantanal, where it cleans up carcasses. |
And a better photo, of a female, again courtesy of Murray Delahoy. |
But one of the creatures we most wanted to see proved to be fairly common and accessible in the Pousada Aguapé grasslands and woodlands. What a thrill!
Lastly, there are the riverine forests and forested ridges, which don't usually flood and which support rich wildlife.
Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda; the lovely needle-billed jacamars are relatives of the woodpeckers, aerial insect hunters, some 20 species found from Mexico to the South American tropics. |
Blaze-winged Parakeet Pyrrhura devillei; a small parrot essentially restricted to the Pantanal. |
Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani, which has a wider distribution in the east of the continent. |
Grey-crested Cachalote Pseudoseisura unirufa, another ovenbird, but one which is mostly restricted to the Pantanal. As this photo might imply, I've found this attractive bird hard to photograph. |
Red-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus trochilirostris; I love this bird and that bill! They too are woodcreepers, but obviously can probe more deeply than their relatives. |
And let's finish with a couple of owls, always a highlight, whether we see them roosting by day or in a spotlight at night.
Well, it's been a long day in the truck, so time to drop you off home. Thanks for your company, and I hope you've been inspired to repeat the safari in a less virtual way!
NEXT POSTING THURSDAY 14 FEBRUARY
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4 comments:
Wow Ian, what an impressive place!
Pousada Aguapé looks to be one of the places I must visit if I ever make it to South America. I think you probably get to see more wildlife than you would see in the Amazonian rainforest in an equivalent period of time. I have added it to my bucket list.
Thank you for a wonderful trip to Pousada Aguapé - glad to hear that cattle ranching can exist with such a diversity of wildlife.
As you already realise, that is quite an astonishing array of nature. Thanks for sharing!
Apologies for the delay in this reply.
Roman, I don't think you should decide between the Pantanal and Amazonia - you need to see both! Amazonia is certainly richer in biodiversity (the most in the world in fact) but it's easier to see things in the Pantanal. You won't regret adding it to your list.
Kath, yes that aspect of it is certainly gratifying and instructive.
Martin, it certainly is - as I may have mentioned, I reckon it would be the greatest wildlife spectacle outside of Africa. And it's a pleasure to share it.
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